A pre-state institution on Ha'eshkol Street only a few meters away from the the combating shoppers and screaming merchants of the Machane Yehuda market, Rachmo has been serving up Iraqi/Kurdish Jewish soul food since the 1930s. Housed in a somewhat oddly-shaped corner building, Rachmo's a little scuffed around the edges, a little dingy, and it won't win any awards for décor unless you like old cooking utensils and portraits of prominent Sephardi rabbis (and really, who doesn't?), but none of that is the point.

The food is what's been making people come back every day since the British Mandate, and it doesn't disappoint. Grab a tray and wait in the probably-lengthy line filled with sullen Israeli workingmen, get up to the kitchen window and make your choice from the standard selection of hummus, kubeh soup (and plenty of other soups), goulash, schnitzel, stuffed peppers and grape leaves, steak and anything else you would think to find on the menu of an Israeli restaurant of this type.