Sushi Rechavia has big shoes to fill. Its flagship Azza Road location occupies what was once Cafe Atara, a Jerusalem landmark, favored coffeeshop of urban politicos and intellectuals for decades. But times change, and Sushi Rechavia's supplantation of Atara is proof that Japanese cuisine has made it in the capital. Although it is sad to see Atara go, the trend of niche ethnic menus replacing vaguely European-style dairy/cafe ones is commendable. In fact, Sushi Rechavia has been such a success that it's opened two additional locations under the same moniker - one still in Rechavia on HaPalmach Street, one down the road in the German Colony on Emek Refaim.

The menu here consists of the usual classic sushi favorites, and the chefs also offer more in the way of temaki (hand-rolled sushi cones) than other city sushi bars. Recognizable menu items are never a bad choice, and those wishing to press somewhat further afield should enjoy the list of creative signature rolls. Noodle dishes are a flavorful success – the one with goose breast and entrecote strips is a highlight – although they focus on ramen and not on other Japanese noodle favorites like udon and soba. The miso soup and the seared tuna seaweed salad are also recommended.

For kosher sushi in three convenient - and pleasant - locations, Sushi Rechavia is hard to beat.